Cultural
ConspiracyTraces of Kimono
Cultural
Conspiracy1) What is ‘traditional’ Japanese clothing?
The kimono and its companion, the geta, originated in Japan over a thousand years ago. It was made from a variety of fabrics, the most expensive made of silk and the cheapest made of linen or paper. Also, unlike Western clothes which are usually designed for just one generation of wearing, the kimono was passed down from mother to daughter sometimes over three or four generations. The kimono has one basic pattern, and it is easy to accommodate to different lengths and body shapes. The way the wearer expressed her individuality was by adjusting the neck and waist line of the kimono. The most common type is the yukata, a made of thin cotton, worn on hot summer days or at onsen vacation spots. It can be seen most at the fireworks contests during the months of July and August. Yet most Japanese today look upon what used to be the everyday dress as a costume only for special occasions such as the New Year or Coming of Age day.
2) What is ‘modern’ Japanese clothing?
It is difficult to describe what the modern style in Japan today because it covers almost everything that is a mix of the Japanese and Western. In the seasonal fashion shows, the concept of modern clothing can be seen in the form of suits draped like kimono or platform shoes that follow the shape of the geta. On the streets of Shibuya and Kichijoji, modern dress can be seen as brightly colored socks (a combination of the traditional tabi and the bright colors of the West) and coats based on the shape of the sashiko, a traditional quilted coat. Some young women even choose to mix and match—they wear a kimono with platform shoes and Western style hair. Modern clothing is best described as a style where though it is still clearly Western, Japanese elements have been incorporated into it.
3) What is ‘Western’ clothing?
Western clothing was introduced to Japan less than one hundred years ago, and now it is the everyday dress for most Japanese people. After World War II, the kimono and its traditional companions were very quickly replaced by Western style clothes such as the jean, collared shirt, and suit. Some people say this was hastened by the defeat, but most others say this happened because of the change in the Japanese living standards. People began to think of the kimono as a bothersome article of clothing that was just hard to move in and took a long time to put on. And so they put the kimono away, only to be worn on special occasions, and took to wearing jeans instead. Western clothing can be seen everywhere today, in the form of the most prevalent jean, sports shoes made in the US, shirts and coats made by foreign brands and women’s dresses and skirts. For the fast paced lifestyle of the Japanese business community, the kimono just didn’t cut it, and was replaced by the business suit and tie.
4) When did the first fashion magazine featuring Western clothing appear in Japan?
In 1946, one year after being defeated in World War II, Japanese publishers began selling fashion magazines showing Japanese women how to dress. Just a few of their names were Soen, Style, New Style, and Shinfukuso. They were not magazines with pictures of ready-made dresses and other articles of clothing, but more a sewing guideline for women who wanted to make their silk kimonos into dresses, or old coats into suits for their husbands. These magazines not only showed how to do this, but also faithfully copied the newest styles from New York and Paris, presenting them to the Japanese in a way never done before.
5) How has the production of cotton changed compared to the production of silk?
While both industries have suffered due to the ever-growing popularity of man-made fabrics, the production of cotton has fallen only 12%, compared to the 39% drop in the production of silk between 1975 and 1988. Jeans are made of cotton, while silk is the main fabric for making the kimono. The difference between the drops in their production shows that the kimono is losing its popularity as everyday wear among the Japanese people.
6) What percentage
of Japanese women would like to wear kimono?
Surprisingly, a survey taken by Bushoan-brand kimono maker and marketer Shinso Ohashi shows that 80% of women would like to wear a kimono. But the problem was, younger women had absolutely no idea where or how to buy a kimono, how much they should pay, and what colors would look good on them. Almost everyone has the impression that kimonos are hard to put on, can’t be put on alone, and can be only worn on a few occasions. Above all of these, they have the impression of being expensive, and this has been one of the stereotypes that has made it difficult for the kimono to make a come back.
7) How much do kimono cost today?
The price of kimono range from 1,000,000 yen for the most expensive to 100,000 yen for a more affordable, every day kimono. I talked to a owner of a kimono store in Kichijoji, and he said, “Nowadays, people don’t buy kimono because they all wear Western clothing. We get the most orders for New Year, and other special occasions when people think it’s a good idea to go traditional and wear a kimono.”
8) Where did the idea of “loose socks” come from?
Loose-socks are the baggy white socks that Japanese middle school and high school girls wear with their uniforms. After talking with some people and thinking of the many Western ideas that may have influenced this type of style, I came to the conclusion that these socks were modeled after the bell-bottom, or flare jeans that are becoming popular again in both the US as well as Japan. Both styles are advertised as ways to make women’s legs appear thinner. They both have a similar shape, tapering off from the knees to being baggy around the girl’s shoes. I think this is another example of modern fashion in that the white socks were mixed with Western flares to create a distinctly new look for young Japanese women.
Fashion in Tokyo is becoming modernized. But why? There are many reasons—the demand for Western goods, the effects of World War II, new technology, and different cultures having an effect on the Japanese people. But the most prominent is the demand for the Western. When Japan reopened its doors to the outer world and Western culture first began its influence, Japanese fell in love with it. They adopted the Western way into every aspect of their lives, but also kept what had been there before. What has been created because of this not a traditional or Western look, but a mixture of both. Something distinctly modern. Though tradition is fading away, the Minister of Culture does not have to worry about Japanese culture being swept away. The culture is changing, as it is supposed to do, but Japanese still hold to some traditional aspects of their lives. Yet, everyday on the streets we see jeans, Nike and English slogans all over the place. The kimono itself may be on a downhill, but the Japanese fashion itself is being modernized in almost every respect—shoes, shirts and skirts. But total Westernization? I wouldn’t bother losing any sleep over it, Minister of Culture. It just isn’t going to happen.
Bibliography
List of Books/Magazines
Interviews
Emmy Harris conducted interviews with twelve Japanese people in Kichijoji March 14th 1998
1) Do you think traditional Japanese fashion is disappearing?
2) What do you like about traditional kimono?
3) What do you like about Western clothing?
Ages: Relatively young
3 males and 9 females